Say WHAT???

      For guys who aren't too familiar with the nuts & bolts of the world of style and fashion, one of the hardest things to grasp is the seemingly crazy lingo that's thrown around by the folks within this world.  I get it, you're too cool to tap that guy who's sitting on the couch next to you at Barne's & Noble, sipping a mocha latte and worshipping a VMan magazine, on the shoulder to ask for help on the proper pronunciation of that famous Italian designer's name that keeps slipping your mind.  Fret not, your boy's got your back as always!  To get you in the loop I've jotted down a few names and terms that are regularly used by those who are in the know, fashion-wise.  Tuck these terms under your belt and you'll be flapping your gums with the best of the best fashionistos (male equivalent of a fashionista) in no time!...


Faux Pas: pronounced "fo-paw"- wearing an item/s in a way that goes against the basic rules of fashion (ie. wearing white after labor day, a rule I've completely ignored since as far back as I can remember)

Bespoke: pronounced "bee-SPOKE"- custom/tailor-made (ie. a bespoke suit/trousers/dress shirt)

Lapel: Pronounced "la-PELL"- the collar of a suit jacket, blazer or topcoat which extends from the neck, down the chest and ends at the point where the garment buttons over the torso.

Arm Hole: The opening or "hole" of the sleeve near the shoulder of a shirt, blazer or coat where you slip your arm into when putting the garment on.

Vent (in a suit jack/blazer): the opening/split in the bottom-rear (or bottom-left/right) of a jacket that allows for movement without tearing due to the garment being too tight on the body.  






Break (in trousers): the portion, typically at the bottom near the ankle, of the pant leg where the fabric "breaks," or is nolonger straight, due to excess length in the fabric.

Brogues: a type of shoe, typically made of leather and are also known as "wingtips," which feature contoured nail-hole designs at the toe in the shape of wings.

Tweed: pronounced "twEEd"- a heavy, slightly rough woolen rabric which often features a herringbone weaving and is typically used to make topcoats and winter vests & trousers.  This type of fabric is commonly made in gray, tan and brown.

Gingham: pronounced "GING-uhm"-  a checked design typically used for casual/dressy shirts.  It resembles plaid but features solid lines that usually intersect over a plain white base.  







Epaulette: pronounced "e-puh-let": button-down shoulder flaps on a shirt or coat.  Typically used on military-inspired garments.

Jean Paul Gaultier- pronounced "sjhaun-paul-GO-tee-yay"- french fashion designer who's name is horribly butchered whenever it's uttered by individuals whom are unfamiliar with the world of fashion.

Dries Van Noten: pronounced "dreez-van-NO-ten"- Belgian clothing designer who is known for his signature raw, street-wear inspired garments.

Ermenegildo Zegna: (this is a crazy one, I know lol) pronounced (1st name) "er-me-na-GIL-do", (last name) "ZEN-ya": A fourth generation, family owned Italian men's clothing label.  


Keep it Stylish, keep it Sexy and always keep it true to YOU!- UrbanGent   

Accessory Necessity: Brooches

    In my most recent Thrift Store Therapy post I told you guys about how I pretty much scoured all of Boston in search of brooch pins.  While viewing videos and pics of the latest mens runway shows I was noticing designers were incorporating brooches into their looks and, in my opinion, they look hot!  We, fellas, have very limited options in terms of accessories; ties, belts, watches & scarves are all that we really have to choose from.  But if you go to any clothing store that sells both men's and women's items you'll see that our female counterparts have endless, and I mean ENDLESS, options when it comes to accessories.  They have hair pins, bows, scrunchies, bracelets, rings, necklaces of every variety along with whatever other whatchama-call-its they could possibly think of adding to their wardrobe as accent pieces.  For this reason I'm always looking for ways to level the sartorial playing field and am constantly on the hunt for new & cool pieces that I can add to accent my ensembles to create unique looks that are a step away from the norm; brooches help me to achieve this.  In years passed brooches were primarily worn by women but in today's modern, fashion forward world men have become brave enough to slightly blur the lines between the sexes and render a more masculine edge to items that may have feminine origins.  I got so much feedback from a lot of you guys concerning brooches (ie. "aren't those for women?" and "I don't think I have the confidence to pull off something so bold") so I've rounded up some pics of stylish guys rocking brooches, both on and off the runway.  Take a look...

A bold colored/shaped brooch adds brightness to muted fabrics





brass & metal work well with heavier fabrics like corduroy & tweed

tie your look together with a brooch of the same genre as the rest of your look (ie. military style brooch with a military jacket)

Keep it Stylish, keep it sexy but always stay true to YOU- UrbanGent

How Sweet the Scent

When I was a young boy my father would always tell me that he believed every man should wear cologne because it sets each of them apart from the next.  His father was also a stickler for fragrance (he'd gently pat Pierre Cardin on my neck with his aged fingers prior to my leaving the house to attend a formal event). I can remember getting dressed for church on Sunday mornings and jetting into my parents room for a few spritzes of my father's cologne as the finishing touch.  I would stand in front of his armoire and gaze at the glistening cologne bottles that were proudly displayed in their fragrant opulence and I'd get all giddy as if I'd just been told that an entire year's allowance was hidden in one the bottles.  Back then my favorite fragrance of my dad's was Stetson Sierra (discontinued) but my individual taste developed over the years to appreciate some of the more unpopular, but unique, men's fragrances on the market.  Most people say that it doesn't matter what fragrance a man wears, as long as it smells good then that's all that matters.  This is nonsense.  You wouldn't expect to see a man in 40s or 50s spritzing Axe body spray across his chest prior to a nice evening out with his wife or work colleagues, would you?  Hopefully the answer is no!  Choosing the right fragrance takes patience and attention to detail; it all comes down to each man's individual personality, lifestyle, overall taste and, ultimately, body chemistry (the effect your body's pheromones and moisture level have on the ingredients in a given fragrance).  Below I've charted out a guide, based on personality and lifestyle, to help make your search for the perfect fragrance as simple as possible.  Hopefully now you'll finally have a reason to lay that bottle of Curve to rest... you know, the one that's been sitting on your dresser, collecting dust since you were in middle school?  Yeah, that one...

Personality: Young (but legal), nonchalant, doesn't get over-excited about little things, prefers music that's a bit more grown & sexy, frequents events that feature poetry reading/spoken word.

Lifestyle: Spends a great deal of time reading/writing, shops at vintage stores, doesn't engage in activities that are too strenuous (ie. contact sports, working out excessively, running around town trying hit all of the hotspots before sundown.)

My fragrance recommendation: scents that are earthy and have undertones of wood or pepper, but still fresh and not overpowering, like:  Burberry (single name) or Grey Flannel by Geoffrey Beene (smells slightly heavy in the bottle but settles into the skin very nicely)

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Personality: Charismatic, calm but still knows how to have a good time, prefers to be a "one woman man" and doesn't mind picking up a book every now & then.

Lifestyle: Enjoys going to dinner with friends or catching the game at a bud's house, shops at casual mens shops, ie. Banana Republic or J. Crew, works in a business/casual environment.

My fragrance recommendation: scents that are subdued, warm and inviting while having fresh undertones such as citrus, like: Marc Jacobs or Burberry Brit.



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Personality: Refined (young or mature in age), appreciates fine dining and art, passionate about business, politics and current events, prefers low-key settings during leisure time.

Lifestyle: Lives a very scheduled life, interacts with highbrow individuals on a regular basis, works in a setting that requires dress/business attire, shops at stores where creased slacks and fitted button-ups are the norm ie. Zara or Ralph Lauren.

My fragrance recommendation: scents that are elegant and convey warmth and panache ie. Prada Amber (I've been obesessed with this fragrance since I first smelled it in GQ) or Yves Saint Laurent L'Homme

Tips:

1. 2 Spritzes are all you need: one on the neck, another in the palm of one hand, rub hands together then pat down your torso and arms.  Less is more!
2. Spray your cologne on directly after you apply lotion to your body, lotion helps your fragrance adhere to your skin better and thus making it last longer (this is just my personal experience).

Keep it stylish, keep it sexy but always stay true to YOU! - UrbanGent

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Thrift Store Therapy, 12/17/10

I'm officially LOVIN' the thrill of finding great pieces at rock bottom prices, as you all know you're boy is always up for a good bargain!  I hit up a new thrift spot that a friend of mine recommended to me and it turned out to be not even the least bit disappointing.  For the last few weeks I'd been looking for a store that sells brooch pins as I've been seeing them on the runway (Javan and Randy B. of TheBlaqueBook also pull them off effortlessly) and figured they'd be cool to incorporate into my look (pinned to a pea coat, blazer or vest), this store put a smile on my face the moment I walked up to the front counter.  I asked the clerk if they sold brooch pins (all the while cringing inside as I awaited that disappointing "no we don't, sorry" response that all the clerks at previous thrift stores delivered to me with a sigh) and he quickly responded "yup, we sure do!" while pulling a velvet tray from beneath the counter.  You're boy was grinning from ear to ear as I rummaged through the tray's contents to finally purchase what I'd been searching for for weeks!  I also found a beautiful navy blazer with gold buttons that fit like a glove, it needs absolutely no tailoring (I kept bragging about it during dinner with a friend later that night, lol).  Check out these pics:

 I was initially afraid this one would be too feminine but paired with a black dinner jacket or waist coat it conveys a very refined, slightly Victorian look.

(Sorry about the imperfection, I've been having issues while uploading some of my pics)

Keep it stylish, keep it sexy but always keep it true to you!

Back 2 The Basics: The Henley

    

        I love pieces whose simplicity give me the freedom to create looks that are timeless while maintaining a subtle sexiness.  The Henley has been one of those pieces and has been a staple in my closet ever since I slipped one on for the first time 3 years ago.  This collarless and seemingly plain shirt was originally part of a two-piece men’s undergarment during the Victorian ages in England, rowers made it popular as a shirt to be worn as a visible outer-shirt when they would wear them during the famous rowing regatta that was established in Henley, England in 1839.  The thing that’s so special about this shirt is it’s undeniable nonchalance; when worn un-ironed, straight off the hanger with a slightly rumpled texture it conveys that your stylish without even really trying.  As with any shirt that a man dons, your Henley should be fitted (not tight).  It can fall just below your waist, sleeves rolled up and, of course, the buttons undone.  If you’re a physically fit guy or if you have a bit of chest hair –not that grizzly, unkempt, fur-looking mess- the Henley is definitely an item that will work well with your body type as it hangs just below the neck and is fitted without looking pretentious in that “I’m purposely wearing a ridiculously tight, revealing shirt to show off my nice physique” kind of way.  My favorite Henleys are those made by H&M and Old Navy, they’re good quality at a great price which means you can stock up on an assortment of colors.

    Tips:

GQ's been endorsing the Henley for years so I guess
it's cool enough...

• Wash separately.  Washing with other items, from my experience, causes it to accumulate lint. 

•  Air dry, the dryer causes serious shrinkage!If you don’t have a place at home to air dry it, buy it one size bigger than usual so that it shrinks down to the correct size when put into the dryer.

• Layer!  The Henley is perfect for layering: with a waistcoat, a blazer, a sweater, underneath a button-up, the possibilities are endless, seriously.

• Don’t go getting all stuffy with it, it’s meant to look relaxed while accentuating your physique just right.

Looking for ways to keep your skin on point during these harsh, wintery months? Check out "Winter Skincare" in the Skincare/Hair care section...

Young, Gifted and Black~

Personally, the reality that society doesn't necessarily have the highest expectations of me, a young African American man, is rather old news and is the fuel behind my ambition in life.  I've never been one to harp on the topic of "race" and the misfortune that Blacks have suffered for centuries, instead I bow my head each day, say a prayer of thanks for the hope of a bright future that I've been granted and I allow the hardships of my race's past to serve as a catalyst to propel me to positivity in my education, relationships and sense of self-worth. The 2 gentleman behind Street Etiquette, one of my favorite blogs, created the project The Black Ivy, an homage to historically Black colleges- particularly those which aim to educate young Black men- and the sense of style, culture and overall mentality that emerges among Black men within such intellectual environments.  It is a video that details all of these elements and I must say that I was utterly moved while watching it for the first time and have found a new sense of pride in being an intellectual Black man.  This idea of style, intellect and drive is in no way reserved to Black men alone but our demographic often needs positive reinforcement such as this to help us shake off the negativity that's constantly projected onto us.  Hopefully this video will inspire you just as it did me.  Be Blessed.